Kanwal Veterinary Hospital

Grooming Tips for Dogs

Tue, 20 Aug 2019 07:13:00 GMT

Grooming sessions can become a special bonding time between you and your dog and are also a good opportunity to check on your dog’s health.

Look carefully for signs of fleas, ticks, skin irritations, lumps or sore spots. Check your dog’s ears, eyes and teeth regularly and consult your vet about any unusual findings.

Regular grooming program

Longhaired dogs need to be groomed daily, while shorthaired breeds may only need one session per week. Pick a time when your dog is relaxed, such as after walking, and when you have sufficient time. Then grooming will be a pleasurable experience for both of you.

Get your puppy accustomed to grooming early in life. Begin gradually by handling your puppy often, touching its ears and paws gently. Start with short grooming sessions and reward your pup with treats as you do so. He or she will then associate handling and grooming with positive outcomes.

Learn where your dog likes to be combed and brushed – some areas may be more sensitive than others. Find that special spot your dog likes the most and grooming will soon become a special treat for your dog!

Combing

Regular brushing and combing will remove loose or matted hair and helps keep the skin free of diseases and parasites such as fleas. Natural oils will be more evenly distributed to give your dog a nice shiny coat. Comb in the direction of hair growth to remove tangles.

Brushing

Brush in the direction of hair growth, beginning at the head, and work towards the tail and down the legs. Brushing removes loose hair and daily brushing of longhaired and double-coated dogs removes dead hair from the undercoat to help prevent matting.

Clipping your dog’s nails

Only clip the tip of each nail, being careful to stop short of the quick where the blood vessels are. Ask your vet to show you the correct technique the first time, especially if your dog has dark nails.

Stopping the bleeding of a trimmed claw can be difficult but they all stop eventually. Try smearing some Vaseline on the claw tip or try applying gentle pressure with a tissue or cotton ball.

Regular exercise on hard ground will help keep the nails trimmed in condition and lengthen the time between trims as the ground acts like an emery board.

Starting young prevents toenail trim terror. If you have a puppy, kitten or even a young bird, train it to accept claw trims at an early age by allowing it to sniff and explore the trimmer long before the claws are trimmed.

For adult animals that are terrified or aggressive, your vet’s help is required. Anti-anxiety medication and a program of progressive desensitisation will help change the dog’s association with the nail trimmers to a happier one.

Using food treats, the dog is rewarded if it stays still for a few seconds while its upper leg is scratched with a finger. Once this is achieved, which may take 5 minutes or more, the clippers are introduced, just by touching against the leg for a few seconds while the dog remains still. The dog is rewarded. Gradually the clipper moves down towards the claws, rewarding calm behaviour as you go, then the paw is raised, and then eventually a single claw may be trimmed without a hint of panic.

A process like this is usually effective but it is not quick and the solution can take weeks or months of daily practice. Patience is a virtue!

Giving your dog a bath

Bathe your dog as necessary with shampoos formulated for dogs only. Frequency depends on the breed of your dog and whether you are using a general shampoo, a medicated shampoo for skin conditions or a flea shampoo or rinse.

A helpful tip is to have everything ready before you start – buckets of lukewarm water or a gentle shower nozzle attached to the tap, non-slip mat if using the bath, shampoo, conditioner or grooming spray, brush or comb, towels, treats and a helper.

Start very slowly, stop and offer your dog treats at each step along the way to keep everyone calm and relaxed. If your dog has a good experience the first time then bathing will be less stressful and more fun in the future for all!

Feeding Your Kitten

Tue, 20 Aug 2019 07:07:00 GMT

Once weaned, your kitten is dependent on you to provide a diet that is complete and balanced for its healthy growth and development .

Kittens grow rapidly and require higher levels of energy and nutrients, up to 3 to 4 times the amount needed by an adult cat. They need extra protein and just the right amount of vitamins and minerals for strong bones and teeth.

What food should I feed my kitten?

Premium growth diets are specifically designed for kittens and are the best way to ensure your kitten receives the right amount of protein, fat, vitamins and minerals in the correct proportions for growth. Dry and canned varieties are available and kittens can be fed a mixture according to feeding guidelines on the label.

Kittens can be started on canned food or moistened biscuits from 3 – 4 weeks of age while still on their mother and should be fully weaned by 6 – 8 weeks old. Kittens need be fed at least 3 times day until they are 4 – 5 months old, then gradually reduce to 2 feeds a day by the time they are 8 – 9 months old.

How much should I feed my kitten?

Kittens should be offered as much food as they like at each meal to ensure they have an adequate intake of nutrients – they are unlikely to overeat at this stage in their life.

Kittens vary in their individual requirements and some grow at a faster than others. They will generally eat enough to satisfy their needs within 20 minutes or so – after this remove any uneaten portions and replace with fresh food at the next meal.

Tips on feeding your kitten

The Importance of Good Gut Health

Tue, 20 Aug 2019 06:57:00 GMT

If your dog is suffering from diarrhoea or excessive flatulence it can be discomforting for them and embarrassing or messy for you.

Depending on the indications, there are a number of things you can do to make things more comfortable for your pet and avoid those unwanted smells!

Embarrassing smells

Frequent flatulence can be caused by a number of factors including eating cheap dog food, too many treats or leftovers, or even your dog eating its food too fast. However, there are a number of things you can do to reduce excessive gas, including:

Frequent Diarrhoea

Diarrhoea can be caused by a number of different diseases but is often related to infection, inflammation or parasites in the digestive system. These diseases alter the bacterial balance in your dog’s digestive system, causing the bad bacteria to outnumber the good bacteria.

A probiotic supplement restores the good bacteria levels to maintain a healthy digestive system. However, if the diarrhoea symptoms persist then you should consult your veterinarian. So, the next time your dog is suffering from excessive flatulence or diarrhoea consider your pet’s diet, digestive system and whether they are getting enough good bacteria.

Scratch That Itch!

Tue, 20 Aug 2019 06:53:00 GMT

Skin Allergies In Dogs

Allergic skin disease is a common problem in dogs and one that may be difficult to determine the cause of and frustrating to manage.

Signs of allergic skin disease in dogs include inflamed skin that is pinker/redder than normal, warmer than normal, and itchy.

Affected dogs will scratch, lick, rub or chew themselves constantly. You may notice your dog rubbing its face on the ground, chewing its paws, rubbing against fences or even rolling around on the ground to scratch that elusive itch.

Excessive scratching results in trauma to the skin, so you may also notice hair loss and a red rash over affected areas. Secondary bacterial or yeast infections of the skin may develop in chronic cases, so the coat may become greasy in appearance and have a nasty smell. Flakes of skin in the coat are also common.

Dogs can be allergic to numerous things including the bites of insects (e.g. fleas), environmental allergens (e.g. pollens, moulds, and house dust), contact with various plants or chemicals or even the food they are eating.

Flick the fleas

The most common skin allergy that affects dogs is flea bite allergy. Flea allergy dermatitis (FAD) typically results in a sparse, dry hair coat at the base of the tail with itchiness more severe in this area.

Dogs with FAD only need one flea bite to start the allergic reaction so you may not notice that your dog has fleas. Comb your dog, especially over the back and tail area, onto a dampened sheet of white paper. Black dots that turn red on contact with the moisture are actually flea faeces, which contain dried blood.

To ensure this is not part, or all, of the problem, it is necessary to use rigorous flea control. Use of one of the newer topical ‘spot-on’ formulations is recommended as these kill adult fleas on the dog within 12-24 hours with a residual action of up to a month, preventing further egg-laying, as well as killing flea larvae in the dog’s environment. Products containing an Insect Growth Regulator (IGR) are also available that stop flea reproduction. If a more rapid flea kill is required, a flea spray or tablets available from your vet may be desirable.

It is also important to treat any other dogs or cats in the household, plus wash any pet bedding, vacuum carpets, areas beneath furniture and even closets. In cases of severe allergy or massive flea infestations, flea bombing the house may be necessary and treating outdoor areas where your dog frequents with insecticides. Alternatively, hire a professional pest controller, especially if you have areas underneath the house that are accessible to pets. Dense vegetation near the home should be mowed or clipped and leaf litter and debris removed to allow the soil to dry.

Food Allergies

If the scratching persists then an allergy of a different type may be the problem, such as food allergies. Any food ingredient can cause an allergy although the protein is usually the offender.

This is diagnosed by feeding a hypoallergenic diet for at least 8 weeks. The goal is to feed a diet that contains protein and carbohydrate sources that your dog has never had before. Venison, rabbit, duck or kangaroo meats are often used as the protein source and rice or potato is often used as the carbohydrate source.

This can be difficult to achieve consistently at home but your vet can prescribe a specialised diet. It is necessary to feed this as the sole diet (no treats, scraps, bones etc.) for at least 8 weeks to see what the response is.

Atopy

Atopy is the second most common allergic skin disorder in dogs and is a genetically inherited disease. Atopic dogs are allergic to substances (allergens) in the environment that are inhaled or absorbed through the skin. House dust mites are the main offender leading to a non-seasonal dermatitis, although the severity of the signs may vary with changes in the environmental allergenic load. More rarely, pollen allergies (trees, weeds and grasses) are involved, which may typically lead to a seasonal dermatitis.

Affected dogs are often extremely itchy (pruritic), especially around the face, belly, armpits, lower legs and feet. Scratching of the trunk, rubbing of the face (lips, chin, ears etc) and chewing of the feet are frequently seen. The intense itching can make them irritable and less tolerant of being handled.

It is estimated that around 10% of dogs suffer from atopic dermatitis and the first signs usually occur between 6 months and 3 years of age. Although it is seen in all breeds of dogs, including mixed-breed dogs, there is a greater than expected incidence in terriers, setters, Golden and Labrador retrievers, Dalmatians, English bulldogs and the Chinese Shar-Pei. The mode of inheritance is not known but is it is considered best not to breed affected dogs, their parents and preferably their siblings as well.

Atopy can be diagnosed by a blood or skin test. Determining which allergens are a problem for your dog can help you to avoid or at least reduce exposure to it. For example, dogs with an allergy to house dust mites may benefit from spending more time outside and/or in rooms with little house dust. If pollens are the problem, then keeping the dog inside when grasses and trees are flowering or removal of certain plants may be helpful in the management of the symptoms.

Atopic dermatitis cannot usually be cured, but it can be controlled to improve the dog’s quality of life. Treatment involves a combination of therapies and usually includes cortisone (which blocks the allergic reaction in most cases) and antihistamines. Drugs specifically developed for the treatment of canine atopic dermatitis are also available. One contains cyclosporin – a natural product extracted from a fungus which acts as a selective immunomodulator – and is proven as effective as corticosteroids in reducing pruritus and skin lesions without the side-effects. Another drug contains oclacitinib, which targets specific immune factors to quickly break the itch cycle with reduced side-effects compared to other therapies. Antibiotics are also often required to treat secondary bacterial infections.

Medicated shampoos can be helpful, especially those that are soap or detergent-free and therefore do not strip the natural oils from the coat. There are soothing shampoos available containing oatmeal and aloe vera as well as leave-on conditioners that help reduce skin inflammation.

Immunotherapy is another important tool in combating allergies. After intradermal skin testing has been performed, a veterinary dermatologist can develop hyposensitisation vaccines to the allergen/s identified. These are especially indicated in severe, year-round cases or where dogs suffer undesirable side-effects to medical therapy.

Complementary therapies, including acupuncture, can also help alleviate allergy symptoms and reduce reliance on traditional medicines in some cases. Fatty acid supplementation can also be beneficial.

Your veterinarian will recommend the best combination of therapies to manage your dog’s atopy.

Allergic contact dermatitis

Contact allergies, such as to certain plants, carpet cleaners and other chemicals, plastic etc. are quite rare in dogs and signs are usually restricted to contact areas where the hair is absent or thin.

Differentiation between the different types of allergic skin diseases can be difficult and other itchy skin conditions, such as sarcoptic mange, skin infections, and drug hypersensitivities, also need to be ruled out. Additionally, more than one skin complaint can be present at the same time, so if your dog is scratching like mad and driving you crazy, the best option is to head to your vet to get the problem ‘licked’.

The sooner your vet can start investigating the cause, or refer you to a veterinary dermatologist if necessary, the sooner the appropriate treatment and advice on managing or preventing further problems can be given. More importantly, the sooner your dog will thank you.

Dental Home Care Options for Pets

Tue, 20 Aug 2019 03:44:00 GMT

Dental home care for your dog or cat can make a tremendous difference to their comfort and health, as well as your veterinary dental bills.

The aim of dental home care is to minimise the build-up of plaque on the teeth, and prevent mineralisation (hardening) of plaque to form calculus (otherwise known as ‘tartar’).

Plaque can be disturbed by mechanical methods such as tooth brushing and chewing. Chemicals can also be used to kill plaque bacteria or slow down tartar formation, and are a useful addition to mechanical methods. Combining several methods will generally achieve the best results.

Home care products do not replace the need for regular dental checks and professional dental care under anaesthesia. Even humans who brush their teeth twice a day, floss and use mouthwash need to have their teeth examined and professionally cleaned by human dentists on a regular basis. Home care spaces out the need for professional care, and means that teeth are less likely to be lost or irreversibly damaged.

Toothbrushing

If your pet will allow it, tooth brushing is the single most effective way of controlling plaque. Brushing disturbs the layer of plaque forming on the teeth before it can harden into tartar. Ideally this should be done daily. Many pets will accept brushing if it is introduced slowly and associated with a reward.

Dog and cat toothbrushes and toothpastes are readily available. Toothbrushes need to have soft bristles – you can use a very soft human toothbrush, but many people find pet toothbrushes easier to use as they have the head angled in a direction that makes it easier to reach the back teeth.

With toothpaste, it is important to use one designed for animals, as human toothpaste is not designed to be swallowed (and dogs are not good at rinsing and spitting). Besides, in flavours such as chicken, beef and tuna, it can help make brushing a treat! Alternatively, oral antiseptics can be used, or just water alone – most of the benefit is actually from the brushing action.

It is very important to have your pet’s mouth examined by a vet before commencing a brushing program, as the presence of any existing disease may make the experience painful – you can then start safely once any disease is under control. Once plaque hardens to calculus, it cannot be removed by brushing alone, so if your dog or cat has visible tartar, having this professionally removed first will make any homecare you perform much more effective.

Chewing

Dogs love to chew, and this has the added benefit of helping to keep their teeth clean. Chewing has an abrasive action that helps remove plaque – however it is important to offer something that is safe (not too small, hard or brittle) yet still effective.

Cats tend to be a bit more finicky than dogs, but can be convinced to chew if offered something interesting and tasty!

Bones are very popular in Australia and have the added benefit of providing enjoyment and boredom relief. However, they should be used with caution as there are some potential complications:

Some pets will break their teeth on them, particularly the upper carnassials (large cheek teeth). This can lead to infection of the jawbone and tooth root abscess if left untreated.
Bones can cause gastrointestinal obstruction and trauma. Cooked bones should never be fed as they are brittle and prone to splintering. Match the size of the bone to the pet (ask your vet for advice if you are unsure) to try and minimise the risk of choking or obstruction.

Avoiding Dental Damage

Some pets may chew bones for years and never have a problem, whereas others chew in such a manner that makes them highly prone to dental damage. You should supervise your pet and remove any bones if concerned about their chewing behaviour.

‘Softer’ chewing options that are widely available include special dental diets and a range of chew treats and toys.

Dental Diets

Although dry foods may help disturb plaque, many are not particularly effective in slowing down periodontal disease as they shatter when bitten, and therefore do not require much actual chewing.

However, some pet food companies have now released both canine and feline ‘dental diets’ which have been scientifically proven to help reduce plaque and/or tartar buildup. These may work by physically cleaning the teeth (they do not fall apart easily when chewed) or by the addition of chemicals that prevent the hardening of plaque to form tartar.

Some foods carry the Veterinary Oral Health Council (VOHC) seal which means they have been independently shown to be effective in reducing plaque and/or tartar accumulation. However, not all companies have sought to use this logo, so just because a product does not display it, this does not mean it is ineffective in slowing down periodontal disease. Choice of diet may be affected by other health issues, so it is a good idea to get professional advice on which diets are most suitable for your pet – the best place to start is your local vet hospital.

Chew Treats and Toys

Other chewy options include specially designed dental chew treats (which may also be impregnated with chemicals that retard plaque growth), rawhides, pigs’ ears, and chew toys (such as rubber Kong toys).

As with bones, careful consideration of size, hardness and brittleness is very important in minimising the risks. Hard toys (including some toy bones) should be avoided as they increase the risk of dental fracture. Tennis balls are very abrasive and can cause excessive tooth wear. As with bones, supervision of your pet while chewing is recommended.

Dental Antiseptics

Antiseptics kill plaque bacteria, and are most effective when combined with a method that physically disrupts the plaque layer to allow them to penetrate properly (this is why dentists don’t recommend we use mouthwash alone as a substitute for brushing our teeth!).

They are available in several forms, including rinses, gels, pastes and water additives. Cats in particular may find some of these ‘offensive’ to their sensitive palates, so ask your local veterinary hospital for advice on which product is best suited to your pet.

Dr Christine Hawke BSc (Vet) (Hons) BVSc (Hons) PhD MACVSc (Vet. Dentistry)
Sydney Pet Dentistry www.sydneypetdentistry.com.au

Bone Groan

Mon, 06 May 2019 10:44:12 GMT

Osteoarthritis in dogs and cats

If only our pets could talk! What messages do we miss by not being able to fully understand what they are thinking and feeling? If there is one message that owners miss more than any other it is when a dog or cat is feeling pain, and the most under-recognised, pain-inducing condition in dogs and cats is osteoarthritis.

When the cold, cruel chills of winter are approaching, it’s time for all pet owners to look critically at their pets to detect the early signs of painful arthritis.

Arthritis is common in pets

Arthritis is more common than most pet owners realise. Overall, one in five dogs suffers the disease, but in dogs more than six years old, 65% are sufferers. The pain an arthritic pet experiences is comparable to that experienced by affected humans but the problem lies in a pet’s inability to communicate this pain to us. The limping and stiffness seen are often put down to old age and owners therefore assume the pain a pet shows is normal and that treatment is not necessary. This is certainly not true and there are many treatment options available but, sadly, the majority of dogs and cats with arthritis have their condition undiagnosed and untreated.

What to look for

Arthritis makes movement painful. So, affected pets hobble around the house, struggle up and down stairs and work especially hard to get to their feet in the chilly mornings.

Arthritic dogs or cats will be reluctant to exercise and are less likely to jump or play. Dogs are less likely to chase balls and will have difficulty jumping into the car when going on trips.

Dogs and cats have difficulty in rising after resting, although after they have struggled to their feet, they tend to move more freely as they ‘warm up’. When resting, a dog will often constantly lick, and sometimes even bite, an affected joint due to the pain the pet is experiencing in that joint.

Dogs with arthritis will often lag behind during walks and they may limp. They have a stiff, stilted gait and show an exaggerated swinging of their hips as they walk. Some will yelp with pain when touched. Many dogs will start to soil the house because it is too difficult to go outside and cats will often have difficulty using their litter tray with accuracy and will regularly soil over the edge of the tray.

Some pets will become aggressive if they are disturbed or when owners or children try to move them.

Affected cats have reduced flexibility and therefore have problems grooming themselves so they often look untidy.

In summary, an animal with untreated arthritis is in continual pain and has a reduced quality of life.

What should you do?

Ideally you should act before the winter chills set in. Your veterinarian will be able to tell if the stiffness and pain your pet is showing are due to arthritis. X-rays and sometimes even blood tests may be needed to confirm a diagnosis.

Obesity contributes significantly to the pain arthritic pets experience. To reduce the stress and strain on your pet’s joints, your vet is sure to advise keeping your dog or cat in trim condition. A pet’s weight can be reduced by feeding it a low calorie diet. Your veterinarian will be able to help with that.

Careful exercise is also important but don’t overdo it because you will place strain on the damaged joints. One of the complications of arthritis is that the muscles in the affected legs wither away because the pet is too sore to exercise. Gentle exercise will prevent that. Try to involve your dog in ‘low impact’ exercise such as swimming. If this is not possible, then gentle walking is good. Avoid running and jumping.

Your veterinarian is likely to use medication to reduce the pain and to give your dog back some quality of life. There are a wide variety of medications available but one of the most convenient is available as a beef-flavoured chewable treat. The newer medications actually help to rebuild some of the damaged cartilage and they also stop further cartilage destruction. Compared to some older preparations, the newer ones are very gentle to the stomach.

While approximately 80% of dogs improve with medical treatment, the medications do not cure the arthritis. In many cases, animals affected by arthritis will need to be on medication for the rest of their lives.

In cold weather arthritis is always worse. Make sure your dog has comfortable bedding and a warm place to sleep. Consider a dog coat to keep your pooch comfortable and if it is an outside dog, ensure it has a warm kennel with a raised floor.

Don’t forget, treatment for arthritis before winter chills creep into your pet’s bones, is the key to a pain-free winter.

By Dr Cam Day BVSc

Feather Picking in Birds

Mon, 06 May 2019 10:37:33 GMT

Can’t work out why your bird is plucking out its feathers? There could be many reasons. Parrots are especially prone to feather plucking and self-mutilation.

Why is my bird mutilating itself?

There are many possible reasons for self-mutilation and it presents a complex and challenging problem for the owner and the veterinarian. There may be a physical reason such as infections involving the feather, or a psychological reason such as stress or boredom. The action often becomes a habit, which can be difficult to break even once the primary reason is removed.

What diseases lead to feather picking?

External or internal parasites, heavy metal poisoning (from chewing metal objects, ingesting fragments of poorly constructed cages or toys or lead-based paint), malnutrition, cancer and other internal diseases can all contribute to self-mutilation. Examination by an avian veterinarian of the feathers, faecal samples, blood tests, and X-rays may be required to diagnose the underlying problem.

Allergies are increasingly being investigated as a cause of feather picking. Some birds may be allergic to certain seeds or to house dust mites.

What are the psychological causes of self-mutilation?

Boredom, overcrowding, environmental changes and poor wing clipping can also lead to feather picking.

Birds should have plenty of environmental enrichment to prevent them from becoming bored. Let your bird out of the cage as much as possible, allowing it free access back into the cage where it feels secure. The bird must also learn discipline and self-confidence from its owner so that they don’t bite, scream, panic or self-mutilate. All family members should be dominant over the bird.

Excessive nesting behaviour can result in seasonal feather self-mutilation. These birds may need a mate, an adjustment in the amount of natural and artificial light they receive each day, or possibly hormone treatment.

Different species of bird self-mutilate for different reasons, so consult an avian veterinarian or behaviourist to discuss your individual case.

By Provet Resident Vet
Contributors: Dr Rebecca Bragg BVSc, Dr Julia Adams BVSc

Portly Pets

Mon, 06 May 2019 10:32:20 GMT

Weight control strategies for dogs and cats

Podgy pooches and portly puss-cats are in plague proportions! Our pets are not only living in the lap of luxury, they are lapping up the luxury living and getting fatter in the process.

The result is that 25-30% of dogs and cats are now overweight. The causes are simple…

We give our pets too much food and give too little exercise, but who can resist those puppy-dog eyes when our pooches plead for that life-saving extra treat or our manipulative purring puss-cats when they snake around our legs near their empty food bowls. The exercise bit is also difficult when the cooler weather makes staying at home much more inviting than pounding the pavement.

Many pet owners think that a bit of extra weight is not a concern. However, overweight pets are predisposed to serious conditions including arthritis, pancreatitis, diabetes (especially with cats) and even cardiovascular disease. There is no doubt that excess body fat shortens a pet’s lifespan.

Is my pet overweight?

The following guidelines will help to determine if your pet is girth-enhanced:

If your dog or cat is of ideal weight, you should be able to feel each rib as you run your fingers along the ribcage.
When viewed from above, your pet should have a definite narrowing or ‘waist’ behind the ribcage.
When viewed from the side, dogs of ideal weight will have an abdomen that tucks upwards from the bottom of the ribcage to the groin.
Many podgy puss cats develop a ‘beer gut’ that hangs between their back legs, which is easily seen and felt when the cat is sitting.
Very overweight dogs develop ‘love handles’ of fat just in front of their hips.

So – how guilty do you feel?

No Fat Pups Please!

One of the most important means of preventing obesity in adult animals is to make sure they are not obese as puppies. The development of too many fat cells as a puppy, through overfeeding, will usually cause obesity in the adult dog.

If you have a pup, it is therefore important that you encourage it to exercise and play. That’s the easy bit! Also, though, avoid having food available constantly. This prevents your pup from eating as much as it wants whenever it wants.

Instead, you should feed your pup three times a day until it is about eight to twelve weeks of age. After that, feed it two meals a day until it is twelve months of age unless it is a giant breed, in which case, twice daily feeding should continue until it is about eighteen months of age.

So, slightly underfeed your pup rather than overfeeding it. Resist the temptation to a have a typical ‘roly-poly’ fat puppy as you are setting the pup up for obesity as an adult animal.

Weight reduction strategies

For dogs and cats that are overweight, a proper weight reduction program is essential.

Firstly, record your pet’s starting weight and then weigh your pet weekly. Your vet will be happy for you to use his or her scales and, while you are there, have a look at the weight reduction diets the surgery has available.
Work out what your dog or cat’s target weight should be.
Then feed your pet the amount of food needed for a pet that would weigh 60% of this target weight. This should see the weight reducing about 3% per week and you should achieve your pet’s target weight in about 12 weeks.
The next rule is essential but tough – and you know what it is! Never feed titbits and never feed your pet from your dinner table.
Make sure your pet doesn’t have access to other food sources such as another pet’s food or that is it not sneaking to the neighbour’s house for a second course.
Don’t provide free access to food unless you measure the amount of food that is available for your pet.

It is a lot easier to reduce your pet’s weight if you feed it on a low calorie, high fibre diet. You can make up your own diet if you wish.

For dogs, mix 115 grams of lean ground beef with half a cup of un-creamed cottage cheese, two cups of grated carrot and two cups of green beans. Add one and a half teaspoons of dicalcium phosphate powder. Lightly cook the beef, drain any fat, cool it and then add the other ingredients. This gives about 775 grams of food and is approximately the daily amount needed for a dog of eight to ten kilograms target weight.

Alternatively, you can buy a prescription food specifically designed for a weight reduction program from your veterinarian. This diet is a properly balanced, very low calorie, high fibre diet. The increased fibre fills the stomach and results in a feeling of ‘fullness’ while not adding unnecessary calories.

Once your pet’s weight has reached its optimum level, you should then put your pet onto a ‘light’ or low-calorie diet to maintain this weight.

Stop guessing the amount of food you should be providing and measure it instead. Do this each morning and place the day’s allowance in a container. You can then give your pet as many treats as you want – provided that the treats come from this container. Feed the remainder at the end of the day.

Work out what your dog should weigh as its target weight. Now give it the amount of food needed for a dog that would weigh 60% of this target weight. This should see the weight reducing about 3% per week.

Now let’s exercise!

Burning the calories is vital and perhaps you and your pet can start an exercise program together! Start with walks you can both handle and increase the length and intensity as you both become fitter.

However, there are many benefits from exercising your dog in your own backyard by throwing balls and Kong toys in various different directions. Swimming is also wonderful exercise for dogs if you can organise it.

Cats are more difficult to exercise but many love a paper mouse on a string or will chase ping-pong balls. Some cats will walk on a harness and you can even make a cat exercise for its food by cutting a hole in the side of a plastic milk carton and hiding its food inside.

Obesity in pets is a dangerous condition. Be tough with yourself to be kind to your pet.

By Dr Cam Day BVSc

Constipation in Cats

Mon, 06 May 2019 09:21:46 GMT

Is your cat having trouble doing his ‘twos’, straining at the ‘back end’ or completely ‘bunged up’? Constipation is a relatively common problem in cats but if not treated or managed correctly it can become a serious condition requiring hospitalisation or even surgery.

What is constipation?

Constipation refers to infrequent and difficult defecation. Constipation occurs when the movement of faeces through the colon (large intestine) is impaired. As the faeces sit in the colon, water and salt are reabsorbed back into the body. This results in hard and dry feces that are difficult for the animal to pass. If constipation worsens to the point where no defecation occurs, this is called obstipation.

There are many causes of constipation, and although initial treatment is often successful, the underlying cause should be determined to prevent constipation recurring, and to see if the constipation is just a sign of another more serious disease.

What are the signs of constipation?

If your cat goes outside to urinate and defecate, you may not observe the signs of constipation. These include straining, and pain during defecation, or passing either small amounts or no faeces. As constipation progresses, the cat becomes depressed and lethargic, inappetent, and sometimes vomiting and dehydration occurs. Sometimes small amounts of fluid that looks like diarrhoea may be produced as the cat strains, so owners think their cat has diarrhoea, and not constipation.

What are the causes of constipation?

Constipation or obstipation may be caused by many conditions, ranging from localised problems within the intestine itself to diseases affecting other body systems:

diet – hair, bones, and indigestible material such as plants
behavioral problems – refusal to use the litter tray or to go outside due to many factors
pain on defecation – spinal pain, arthritis, anal sac disease, or a foreign body in the rectum such as a sharp piece of cooked bone
obstruction of the large intestine – tumour, stricture, foreign body, a fractured pelvis that has healed abnormally to reduce the size of the pelvic canal through which the colon passes, and others
megacolon – an enlarged colon that does not function normally
dysfunction of the colon due to other diseases or nerve problems

What is the treatment for constipation?

The treatment of constipation or obstipation involves the removal of faeces from the colon. This can be accomplished by enemas, administration of laxatives, or drug therapy. In some cases, the cat needs to be sedated or anaesthetised to allow large amounts of soapy water to be used as the enema, and the hard faeces to be manually broken down. In some cases of obstipation, this process is repeated daily until all of the obstruction is passed. In addition, surgical removal of the damaged portion of the colon (colectomy) may be required in some cats with obstipation. A constipated animal usually is dehydrated so fluid therapy is often included in the treatment protocol.

Treatment depends on the cause, but often includes addition of fibre in the form of psyllium to the diet to make the faeces softer and easily deformable to prevent recurrent episodes of constipation. Laxatives may be also be required. If constipation progresses to obstipation, the prognosis is poorer because of damage to the wall of the colon and the risk of developing megacolon.

By Provet Resident Vet
Contributors: Dr Rebecca Bragg BVSc, Dr Julia Adams BVSc

Bladder Stones in Dogs

Mon, 06 May 2019 08:11:40 GMT

Bladder or urinary stones are called uroliths or calculi, and are rock-like collections of minerals that form in the bladder. Minerals that may be involved include magnesium ammonium phosphate, calcium oxalate, urates, and others. There may be a single stone, a few, or many, the size of grains of sand.

Urolithiasis (the formation of urinary stones) is a common condition responsible for lower urinary tract disease in dogs and cats.

Why do uroliths form?

Uroliths form when the urine is oversaturated with minerals, and there are several factors that can lead to the formation of uroliths.

Diet, metabolic illness, genetic factors, and bacterial infections of the urinary tract can predispose to urolith formation. While the exact mechanism is not known, high dietary intake of minerals and protein in association with highly concentrated urine may contribute to increased saturation of salts in the urine. Disease conditions such as bacterial infections in the urinary tract can also increase urine salt concentration.

There are several different types of urolith with struvite (magnesium ammonium phosphate) calculi and oxalate (calcium oxalate) calculi the most common. Since different types require different treatment, it is important to determine the type present.

What problems do bladder stones cause?

Most bladder stones are located in the urinary bladder or urethra. Urinary stones can damage the lining of the urinary tract causing inflammation. This inflammatory reaction may predispose the animal to bacterial urinary tract infection (UTI). Urinary stones may physically block the urine flow causing urinary obstruction that requires immediate emergency treatment.

Small urinary stones may become lodged in the urethra, particularly in male dogs, causing an obstruction that requires urgent treatment. Stones may also become lodged in the ureter (the portion of the urinary tract carrying urine from the kidney to the urinary bladder) also causing an obstruction that results in serious kidney damage.

What are the clinical signs?

The two most common signs of uroliths are blood in the urine (haematuria) and straining to urinate (dysuria). Mechanical irritation of the lining of the bladder and lower urinary tract causes bleeding, inflammation, and pain.

Dogs may also urinate small amounts frequently, sometimes only passing a few drops at a time, and can urinate in inappropriate places such as in the middle of the kitchen floor.

Stones can also block urine passage. The dog may be straining to urinate without passing any urine. It may be depressed, stop eating and start vomiting. Emergency veterinary attention is required.

How are bladder stones diagnosed?

Some large stones can be palpated through the abdominal wall, but radiographs are required to diagnose their presence. Some stones are not directly visible on radiographs and air and/or dye must be injected into the bladder to visualize them. Ultrasound examination will also detect uroliths.

Blood and urine tests will also be taken to investigate the condition and determine the best method of treatment.

How are bladder stones treated?

Struvite stones may be dissolved medically by feeding a commercial prescription diet. The diet must be fed exclusively and the process can take up to a few months.

However, calcium oxalate, urate, cystine and silicate stones cannot be dissolved and require surgical treatment. There are many factors that influence the best approach to treatment.

Antibiotics are used for any bacterial infection.

Do bladder stones recur, and can they be prevented?

The recurrence rate is 20% to 50%, so preventative therapy is important. Ongoing medication or a change in diet may be recommended, depending on the type of urolith present.

Commercially prepared diets are recommended to reduce the risk of recurrence/occurrence of struvite and calcium oxalate urolithiasis. These diets control the urine pH and contain reduced levels of protein, magnesium and phosphorus to help limit the building blocks of crystals and bladder stones.

By Provet Resident Vet
Contributors: Dr Rebecca Bragg BVSc, Dr Julia Adams BVSc

Skin Problems in Guinea Pigs

Mon, 06 May 2019 07:09:37 GMT

Many factors can cause skin problems in guinea pigs, including parasites, fungal infections, scurvy, barbering and abscesses. While some problems can be treated easily at home, it’s best to seek veterinary advice if a skin problem persists.

Parasites

Mites are a common cause of itchiness in guinea pigs, especially around the head and neck area. With intense itchiness, the guinea pig can scratch so much that wounds appear on the skin, prompting owners to assume that their guinea pigs have been fighting. Some guinea pigs even start fitting due to the itchiness. Mites may be seen under the microscope after skin scrapings are taken, and treatment may be topical or injected.

Fleas and lice can also affect guinea pigs, and treatment is simple and effective, using sprays or baths.

Fungal infections

Itchiness and patchy hair loss in guinea pigs may be due to fungal infections. As with mites, the itchiness can be intense, leading to self-trauma. Treatment involves medicated shampoos, or in more severe infections, antifungal medication is given.

Functional Cystic Ovaries

This is a common condition in female guinea pigs, leading to swelling of the abdomen, and hair loss along both sides of the body. There is not usually any itchiness. Diagnosis may be made by palpating the enlarged ovaries, by ultrasound, or by elimination of other conditions. Treatment involves removal of the affected ovaries.

Some pregnant sows can develop the same pattern of hair loss in the late stages of pregnancy, but this resolves after the babies are born.

Barbering

Barbering refers to the pulling out of hair by other guinea pigs, or it may be self-inflicted. It can be due to boredom in single guinea pigs, or to behavioural problems in those housed together. Environmental and hierarchy factors are considered in developing the best approach to barbering, and often the addition of good quality hay improves the situation.

Slobbers

Slobbers is a type of moist dermatitis that can form under the chin and neck due to excessive salivation. It is usually due to tooth and mouth problems.

Bumblefoot (Pododermatitis)

Pododermatitis means skin infection of the foot, and is usually manifested as swelling, ulceration, and thickening of the skin. It can be very painful, and sometimes leads to bone infection. Causes include inappropriate floor substrates such as wet or dirty floors, or rough, abrasive, or wire floors. Other factors include obesity and therefore lack of mobility.

Pododermatitis can be difficult to treat as the infection may be well-established. Floors should be lined with soft, dry, clean material such as layers of shredded paper, recycled paper pellets, or straw. This must be changed often to avoid it becoming wet and soiled.

Some guinea pigs tolerate bandaging of the affected foot or feet, but most will not. Weight loss is advised in obese guinea pigs, and antibiotics and analgesics are administered. In some cases, surgery may be advised to remove dead tissue.

Scurvy

Vitamin C deficiency is known as scurvy. Many commercial guinea pig diets are deficient in Vitamin C so fresh leafy green vegetables are an essential part of the daily diet. Scurvy can be manifested as a rough or unkempt hair coat, and other signs include wobbliness in the hindlegs, haemorrhage, lameness, hair loss, diarrhoea, and joint swelling.

Treatment involves daily administration of vitamin C for up to 2 weeks.

Greasy Seborrhoea

Excessive gland secretions can lead to a smelly, greasy, matted hair coat, sometimes with secondary infections. The condition is seen along the backline especially around the rump, and more commonly in male guinea pigs. Treatment involves medicated baths.

Abscesses

Abscesses may be a result of fighting or other wounds and require surgery to drain the pus, as well as the administration of antibiotics. The presence of abscesses involving the lymph nodes under the neck is called Cervical Lymphadenitis and is usually secondary to infections in the mouth.

By Provet Resident Vet

Contributor: Dr Julia Adams BVSc

Cat Scratch Disease in Humans

Mon, 06 May 2019 00:50:06 GMT

Cat scratch disease is a disease of humans, caused by bites and scratches from cats carrying the organism Bartonella benselae . The more serious cases are seen most commonly in immunocompromised people, such as those with HIV/AIDS.

What are the signs of cat scratch disease?

There are a variety of signs including weight loss, fever, malaise, headache, muscle aches, conjunctivitis, skin eruptions, joint pain, and enlargement of the lymph nodes. It takes about 3 weeks from exposure to develop signs, and most cases are self-limiting but may take several months to resolve. The disease can be treated with antibiotics.

Can all cats transmit cat scratch disease?

Only cats carrying the organism can transmit it. It is possible that fleas can transmit the organism from infected cats to humans, and to other cats. The disease appears to be transmitted most commonly from kittens, which can remain infectious for weeks to months, after which the organism disappears from their blood. It is not clear whether cats can be reinfected, and there are no reported cases of any human being infected more than once.

Is cat scratch disease serious?

Since most people infected with the organism recover, it is of more importance in immunocompromised people. These people especially should avoid kittens, and cat-induced wounds should be cleansed as soon as possible.

By Provet Resident Vet
Contributors: Dr Rebecca Bragg BVSc, Dr Julia Adams BVSc

Pet Care Tips for Cold Weather

Fri, 01 Jul 2016 10:50:24 GMT

When cold weather sets in, it is important to take extra care of your pets by helping them stay warm and safe throughout the winter months.

Pets’ cold tolerance varies based on their coat, body fat, activity level and health. Pets with conditions such as diabetes, heart disease, kidney disease or hormonal imbalance will have a harder time regulating body temperature. The same goes for puppies, kittens or senior pets.

Arthritis

Pets with arthritis will become stiff and tender quickly in winter, and might find it difficult to move around. You can place soft beddings around the house to ensure your pets are comfortable wherever they are, and take special care to handle them gently.

If you suspect that your pet is suffering from arthritis, visit your veterinarian for a check-up.

Weight

You may feel like a little extra weight gives your pet some extra protection from the cold, but the associated health risks (including increased risk of diabetes, arthritis and heart conditions) far outweigh any potential short-term benefits.

Keep your pet at a healthy weight throughout winter by feeding them a healthy diet and giving them regular exercise, and keep them warm by keeping them inside.

Bedding

To help keep your pet warm, you can elevate their bed up off the floor by placing them on cushions or folded blankets. This is particularly important on concrete or wooden surfaces.

You can help maintain your pet’s mobility and avoid joint stiffness by engaging in regular exercise with them. A 20-minute walk on flat, even ground can work wonders for both you and your pet and gets the blood pumping to help protect against the cold.

If your pets are noticeably struggling to lie down or get up from bed, it may be a sign of arthritis or another age-related disease, many of which can worsen in winter. Consult your vet for advice, or organise a check-up during the chilly winter months.

Indoor Pets

With your pets spending more time indoors during winter, it is important to make sure your home is properly pet-proofed. This can be achieved by using space heaters with caution around pets, because they can knock them over, causing injury and danger to themselves, or potentially damaging property.

Outdoor Pets

Outdoor cats will seek warmth wherever they can, including on engines, under hoods of cars or in wheel wells. It’s important to always check your car and make some noise (by banging on the hood and honking the horn) before starting the engine. This will ensure that any cat in hiding can get out and avoid serious injury.

Staying vigilant throughout the winter months can really help keep pets safe and well. However there are always times when the unexpected occurs; it’s a good idea to insure your pet. Talk to your vet for more advice on pet insurance.

By Petsure Australia

Kanwal Veterinary Hospital

Grooming Tips for Dogs

Regular grooming program

Combing

Brushing

Clipping your dog’s nails

Giving your dog a bath

Feeding Your Kitten

What food should I feed my kitten?

How much should I feed my kitten?

Tips on feeding your kitten

The Importance of Good Gut Health

Embarrassing smells

Frequent Diarrhoea

Scratch That Itch!

Skin Allergies In Dogs

Flick the fleas

Food Allergies

Atopy

Allergic contact dermatitis

Dental Home Care Options for Pets

Toothbrushing

Chewing

Avoiding Dental Damage

Dental Diets

Chew Treats and Toys

Dental Antiseptics

Bone Groan

Osteoarthritis in dogs and cats

Arthritis is common in pets ﻿

What to look for

What should you do?

Feather Picking in Birds

Why is my bird mutilating itself?

What diseases lead to feather picking?

What are the psychological causes of self-mutilation?

Portly Pets

Weight control strategies for dogs and cats

Is my pet overweight?

No Fat Pups Please!

Weight reduction strategies

Now let’s exercise!

Constipation in Cats

What is constipation?

What are the signs of constipation?

What are the causes of constipation?

What is the treatment for constipation?

Bladder Stones in Dogs

Why do uroliths form? ﻿

What problems do bladder stones cause?

What are the clinical signs?

How are bladder stones diagnosed?

How are bladder stones treated?

Do bladder stones recur, and can they be prevented?

Skin Problems in Guinea Pigs

Parasites

Fungal infections

Functional Cystic Ovaries

Barbering

Slobbers

Bumblefoot (Pododermatitis)

Scurvy

Greasy Seborrhoea

Abscesses

Cat Scratch Disease in Humans

What are the signs of cat scratch disease?

Can all cats transmit cat scratch disease?

Is cat scratch disease serious?

Pet Care Tips for Cold Weather

Arthritis

Weight

Bedding

Indoor Pets

Outdoor Pets

Arthritis is common in pets

Why do uroliths form?